The Market Reality: Why Fine Count Cashmere Merino Blends Are Hard to Source

The knitwear industry loves to talk about innovation, fibre science, and the pursuit of ever‑finer yarns. Yet when designers or small brands go searching for fine count Cashmere and Merino blends, particularly 10%Cashmere 90%Merino or 30%Cashmere 70%Merino in 48 nm or finer, they quickly discover a frustrating truth: most suppliers simply don’t stock them.

This absence isn’t a coincidence, nor is it a sign of industry neglect. It’s the result of a complex mix of technical limitations, economic pressures, supply chain realities, and market behaviour. Understanding these factors helps designers make informed decisions and sets realistic expectations when developing custom knitwear collections.

This article unpacks the reasons behind the scarcity, offering a clear and balanced view of the market reality.

1. Fibre Length and Fineness: The Technical Barrier

To spin a yarn as fine as 48 nm or above, mills require fibres that are:

• exceptionally long

• exceptionally fine

• exceptionally consistent

Cashmere, by nature, is shorter and more delicate than Merino wool. Even high grade Mongolian cashmere averages 34–42 mm in staple length. Merino, on the other hand, can reach 60–100 mm depending on the breed.

When blending the two, the shorter fibre dictates the spinning limit. In blends with only 10–30%Cashmere, the shorter fibres are dispersed throughout the yarn, increasing the risk of:

• fibre slippage

• breakage during spinning

• uneven drafting

• weak yarn structure

Spinning such a blend into a 48 nm or finer count becomes technically challenging and often uneconomical. Mills prefer to reserve fine counts for pure Merino or high cashmere blends, where fibre behaviour is more predictable.

2. High Waste Rates Make Production Unattractive

Fine‑count spinning is unforgiving. Any inconsistency in fibre length or fineness leads to:

• higher breakage

• more machine stoppages

• increased waste

• longer production times

When cashmere is added, especially in small percentages, the waste rate rises further. For mills, this means:

• lower yield

• higher labour cost

• higher energy consumption

• reduced machine efficiency

For a product with low market demand, the economics simply don’t add up. Mills prioritise yarns that can be produced efficiently and sold reliably.

3. Low Market Demand: The Silent Decider

While designers may dream of ultra‑fine blends, the broader market doesn’t always follow. Most brands opt for:

• pure cashmere for luxury positioning

• pure Merino for performance and affordability

• standard blends (e.g., 30/70 or 50/50) in 24–32 nm counts

Fine‑count blends are a niche within a niche. Mills operate on volume, and if a yarn doesn’t have strong, consistent demand, it won’t be stocked.

In short: If the market won’t buy it in bulk, mills won’t make it in bulk.

4. Blending Challenges at Low Cashmere Percentages

A 10% cashmere blend may sound appealing on paper—softness with affordability—but in practice, it introduces several issues:

• The cashmere content is too low to significantly change the hand‑feel.

• The blend behaves more like Merino during spinning, but with added instability.

• The final product often fails to justify a premium price.

For mills, this creates a commercial dilemma: Why produce a difficult yarn that the market won’t pay extra for?

This is why 10% cashmere blends are typically offered in coarser counts, where spinning is more forgiving and the cost‑to‑value ratio makes sense.

5. Supply Chain Priorities: Mills Follow the Money

Large spinning mills plan production months in advance. Their priorities are shaped by:

• confirmed orders

• predictable seasonal demand

• yarns with broad commercial appeal

• efficient machine utilisation

Fine count Cashmere and Merino blends fail to meet these criteria. They are:

• technically demanding

• costly to produce

• slow to spin

• low in demand

• difficult to stock profitably

As a result, mills focus on what sells: pure Merino in fine counts, and cashmere blends in mid range counts.

6. MOQ and Custom Spinning: The Only Realistic Route

For brands determined to use a fine‑count blend, custom spinning is often the only option. However, this comes with:

• high minimum order quantities (often 100–300 kg per colour)

• long lead times

• higher cost per kilogram

• limited flexibility for small collections

This is why many smaller brands struggle to access these yarns. The infrastructure simply isn’t designed for low volume experimentation.

7. A Fair Assessment: It’s Not Impossible, Just Impractical

It’s important to be fair. Fine count Cashmere and Merino blends can be produced. Some boutique mills and specialist spinners are capable of it. But the reality is:

• the yarn will be expensive

• the MOQ will be high

• the lead time will be long

• the risk will be on the buyer, not the mill

For most suppliers, it’s not a matter of unwillingness, it’s a matter of practicality.

8. What This Means for Designers and Brands

Understanding these constraints helps brands make smarter decisions. If you’re developing a knitwear line, consider:

• Is a 48 nm blend essential, or would a 26–32 nm count achieve the same effect?

• Would a higher cashmere percentage improve spinability and performance?

• Is custom spinning viable for your scale and budget?

• Would a pure Merino or pure cashmere alternative serve the design better?

Being flexible with specifications often leads to better outcomes, both technically and commercially.

A Niche Product in a Practical Industry

The scarcity of fine count Cashmere Merino blends isn’t a mystery, it’s a reflection of the textile industry’s practical realities. Technical limitations, economic pressures, and market behaviour all converge to make these yarns difficult to produce and even harder to stock.

For designers who understand these constraints, the path forward becomes clearer.

Whether that means adjusting specifications, exploring custom spinning, or choosing alternative fibres, informed decisions lead to better products and fewer production headaches.

In an industry where fibre science meets commercial reality, knowledge is the most valuable material of all.