26nm vs 48nm vs 80nm: The Real Differences in Cashmere Sweaters

Cashmere is often spoken about as if it were one single material — soft, luxurious, and universally the same. In reality, the quality of a cashmere sweater depends heavily on one technical detail that most shoppers never hear about: yarn count, expressed as nm.

Understanding yarn count is one of the simplest ways to judge the quality, feel, performance, and price of a cashmere garment. Whether you’re a buyer, a retailer, or simply someone who wants to make informed choices, knowing the difference between 26nm, 48nm, and 80nm will completely change how you evaluate knitwear.

This guide breaks down what yarn count means, how different counts behave, and why the price varies so dramatically.

What Does Yarn Count (nm) Actually Mean?

Yarn count, measured in nm (number metric), describes how fine the yarn is. In simple terms:

• The higher the nm number, the finer the yarn.

• Finer yarns require finer fibres, more delicate spinning, and more skilled craftsmanship.

For example:

• 26nm = thicker yarn

• 48nm = finer yarn

• 80nm = ultra‑fine, luxury‑grade yarn

The yarn count directly influences:

• Softness

• Weight

• Drape

• Warmth

• Durability

• Price

Once you understand this, the differences between cashmere sweaters become much clearer.

26nm Cashmere: Classic, Warm, and Durable

Best for: everyday sweaters, winter warmth, budget‑friendly options

Fibre fineness: typically around 15.5–16.5 microns

Feel: soft, cosy, slightly fuller hand‑feel

Price level: most affordable

Characteristics

26nm is the most common yarn count used in ready‑made cashmere sweaters. It produces a slightly thicker, more robust yarn that holds warmth well and stands up to regular wear.

Sweaters made from 26nm yarn tend to:

• Feel warm and substantial

• Have a slightly heavier drape

• Offer good durability

• Provide excellent value for money

For customers who want “real cashmere” without the premium price tag, 26nm is a reliable and sensible choice.

48nm Cashmere: Finer, Softer, and More Refined

Best for: lightweight knits, premium basics, transitional seasons

Fibre fineness: around 14.5–15 microns

Feel: noticeably softer and smoother than 26nm

Price level: mid‑range premium

Characteristics

48nm yarn sits in the middle ground — finer than standard cashmere but not as delicate as ultra‑fine grades. It allows for lighter, more elegant sweaters that still feel warm and luxurious.

Sweaters made from 48nm yarn typically:

• Feel softer and more refined

• Have a lighter, more fluid drape

• Work well for spring, autumn, and indoor wear

• Offer a premium feel without the ultra‑luxury price

For brands and buyers seeking a step up in quality, 48nm is a strong, balanced choice.

80nm Cashmere: Ultra‑Fine, Rare, and Truly Luxurious

Best for: high‑end knitwear, featherweight sweaters, luxury collections

Fibre fineness: around 13–14 microns

Feel: exceptionally soft, light, and silky

Price level: highest

Characteristics

80nm cashmere belongs to the top tier of the industry. Only a small percentage of raw cashmere fibres are fine enough to be spun into such a delicate yarn, and the spinning process requires exceptional skill.

Sweaters made from 80nm yarn:

• Feel incredibly soft — almost “second‑skin”

• Are lightweight yet warm

• Have a refined, elegant drape

• Are often used by luxury houses for premium collections

Because the fibres are so fine, production is slower, wastage is higher, and the raw material is rarer — all of which contribute to the higher price.

Side‑by‑Side Comparison: 26nm vs 48nm vs 80nm

Feature	26nm	48nm	80nm
Fibre fineness	15.5–16.5 microns	14.5–15 microns	13–14 microns
Softness	Soft	Softer	Ultra‑soft
Weight	Medium–heavy	Medium–light	Featherweight
Warmth	High	Moderate–high	High without bulk
Drape	Structured	Smooth	Elegant and fluid
Durability	Strong	Good	More delicate
Price	Most affordable	Mid‑range	Highest
Best for	Everyday wear	Premium basics	Luxury collections

Why the Price Increases with Yarn Count

The jump from 26nm to 48nm to 80nm isn’t just marketing — it reflects real differences in cost and craftsmanship.

1. Rarity of the fibres

Only the finest portion of the cashmere fleece can be used for 48nm and especially 80nm yarns.

2. Higher wastage

Finer fibres break more easily during spinning, meaning more raw material is needed.

3. Slower production

Ultra‑fine yarns require:

• Lower machine speeds

• More manual adjustments

• More quality checks

4. Premium positioning

80nm cashmere is considered a luxury‑grade material, used by high‑end brands for their most refined knitwear.

Which Yarn Count Should You Choose?

Choose 26nm if you want:

• Warmth

• Durability

• Everyday value

• A classic cashmere feel

Choose 48nm if you want:

• A softer, more refined hand‑feel

• A lighter sweater

• A premium look without the luxury price

Choose 80nm if you want:

• The softest, finest cashmere available

• A featherweight, elegant drape

• A luxury‑grade garment with exceptional comfort

Yarn count is one of the most reliable indicators of cashmere quality. Once you understand the difference between 26nm, 48nm, and 80nm, you can immediately recognise why some sweaters feel softer, drape better, or cost significantly more.

Whether you’re selecting products for your brand or choosing a sweater for yourself, knowing the yarn count gives you a clear, confident way to judge value — and ensures you’re getting exactly the level of luxury you’re paying for.