Mohair Revival: Why This Yarn Is Back on the Runway

From the looms of heritage mills to the spotlight of luxury catwalks, mohair has staged an elegant comeback. Once associated with retro fashion and heirloom knits, this lustrous yarn has found fresh relevance in contemporary design. But what lies behind mohair’s resurgence, and why are designers drawn to its understated opulence?

Mohair is a natural fibre harvested from the Angora goat, prized for its exceptional sheen, softness, and durability. While often mistaken for wool, mohair is notably lighter, smoother, and has a distinctive halo that adds textural depth to garments. Its fibre length also allows it to take dye beautifully — from rich jewel tones to soft pastels — making it a favourite among colour-driven designers.

Modern fashion demands more than aesthetics — sustainability, versatility, and performance are now core. Mohair ticks all three boxes:

• Sustainability: Many mohair suppliers now adhere to Responsible Mohair Standards, ensuring ethical treatment of animals and transparent production practices.

• Thermal Regulation: Mohair’s hollow fibres provide excellent insulation while remaining breathable — ideal for transitional and winter collections.

• Lightweight Luxury: Designers are favouring mohair for its ability to deliver warmth without bulk, especially in oversized silhouettes and elevated layering pieces.

Today's knitwear makers are experimenting with mohair blends and advanced gauges to achieve both drape and structure. Popular configurations include:

• 7gg and 5gg: These medium-to-chunky gauges create plush, voluminous knits — perfect for relaxed jumpers and statement outerwear.

• 3gg with brushed mohair: Adds visual softness and depth, often paired with ribbed details for textural contrast.

• Blends with silk or nylon: Enhances elasticity and sheen while improving durability for commercial production.

Major fashion houses and independent designers alike are embracing mohair:

• Luxury labels highlight mohair’s artisanal edge in elevated basics and knit dresses.

• Emerging brands favour mohair blends in youthful silhouettes — cropped cardigans, slouchy scarves, and tactile accessories.

• Retail buyers increasingly request mohair for its perceived value and seasonal relevance, particularly in Northern and European markets.

The key to mohair’s modern styling lies in contrast and context:

• Pairing mohair knits with tailored trousers or leather creates a balanced look — soft meets structure.

• Layering sheer mohair jumpers over dresses or shirts adds warmth without overwhelming the outfit.

• Tone-on-tone dressing using mohair separates lends a sophisticated, editorial feel.

Expect to see mohair appearing in:

• Earthy palettes — russet, stone, moss — that reflect sustainability and slow fashion.

• Sculptural knitwear with exaggerated sleeves and modular construction.

• Texture mixing — mohair with brushed alpaca, looped wool, or bouclé yarns for depth and intrigue.

Mohair’s revival is a testament to fashion’s cyclical nature — and its ever-deepening appreciation of quality fibres. Whether in the hands of heritage craftsmen or avant-garde designers, mohair continues to prove that luxury is best when it’s subtle, sustainable, and smartly styled.