Not All That’s Fluffy Is Brushed: Understanding Cashmere Finishes

Few fibres carry the same reputation for luxury and softness as cashmere. However, as textile innovation expands and product descriptions become more creative, terminology can easily blur—leading to confusion among buyers and designers alike. A particularly widespread misunderstanding is the belief that any fuzzy or fluffy cashmere must be “brushed.” In truth, the distinction is far more nuanced.

This article aims to clarify what brushed cashmere truly is, how it differs from other finishes, and why combining brushed and unbrushed (regular) cashmere in a single garment is not only technically problematic but also ill-advised from a performance and care perspective.

What Is Brushed Cashmere?

Brushed cashmere refers to a specific finishing technique applied to knitted or woven cashmere fabrics. After the garment or fabric is constructed, the surface is gently brushed—often with natural teasels or fine wire rollers—to raise the fibres and create a soft, fuzzy halo. This process enhances the tactile softness and gives the fabric a warm, almost velvety appearance.

Key Characteristics:

• Raised surface with a soft, airy handfeel

• Visibly fuzzy texture, often described as “fluffy” or “cloud-like”

• Enhanced warmth due to trapped air in the raised fibres

• Delicate structure that requires special care

It’s important to note that brushing is a post-production finish, not a property of the yarn itself. The same yarn can yield a smooth or brushed surface depending on how it’s treated after knitting.

Fluffy ≠ Brushed

Here’s where the confusion often begins. Not all fluffy cashmere is brushed, and not all brushed cashmere is overtly fluffy. Some yarns—particularly those spun with longer fibres or looser twists—can naturally bloom during washing or wear, giving a soft, fuzzy look without any brushing at all.

This natural bloom is often mistaken for brushing, but the two are fundamentally different:

• Natural bloom is a result of yarn structure and finishing wash.

• Brushing is a mechanical process that alters the surface of the fabric.

Understanding this distinction is crucial for both consumers and designers, especially when it comes to garment construction and care.

Special Care Required: Why Brushed Cashmere Is More Delicate

Brushed cashmere, while undeniably cosy, is more fragile than its unbrushed counterpart. The brushing process lifts the surface fibres, making them more prone to:

• Pilling

• Snagging

• Felting if washed improperly

As a result, brushed cashmere garments require gentler handling and specialised washing. Ideally, they should be:

• Hand-washed in cool water with a delicate wool detergent

• Dried flat, away from direct heat or sunlight

• Stored carefully to avoid crushing the raised surface

Machine washing—even on a wool cycle—can cause irreversible damage to the brushed finish.

Why You Shouldn’t Mix Brushed and Regular Cashmere in One Sweater

From a design perspective, it might seem appealing to combine brushed and unbrushed panels or stripes in a single garment. However, this approach is fraught with challenges:

1. Incompatible Washing Requirements

Brushed cashmere demands a gentler wash than regular cashmere. If combined in one piece, the entire garment must be treated as brushed—which may not be ideal for the unbrushed sections. Conversely, if washed as regular cashmere, the brushed areas may felt or lose their softness.

2. Uneven Wear and Ageing

Brushed areas are more prone to pilling and wear. Over time, this leads to visual and textural imbalance—with some parts of the sweater ageing faster than others.

3. Structural Tension

Brushing slightly alters the tension and elasticity of the fabric. Mixing brushed and unbrushed panels can result in uneven drape, distortion, or puckering, especially after washing.

4. Aesthetic Inconsistency

Even if the initial look is intentional, the contrast between brushed and unbrushed areas may become more pronounced (and less attractive) with wear and laundering.

Why This Matters

As professionals in the knitwear industry, it’s our responsibility to educate clients and consumers about the technical realities behind their favourite fibres. Brushed cashmere is a beautiful finish, but it’s not a universal solution—and it certainly isn’t interchangeable with “fluffy” or “soft.”

By understanding the true nature of brushed finishes, we can:

• Set realistic expectations for garment care and longevity

• Avoid design pitfalls that compromise product quality

• Uphold the integrity of cashmere as a premium fibre

In short: not all that’s fluffy is brushed, and not all brushed cashmere is suitable for every design. Treat it as a specialist finish—one that offers exceptional softness and warmth, but also demands respect in handling and application.

If you’re developing a collection or advising clients, always consider the end-use, care requirements, and structural implications before incorporating brushed cashmere. And if in doubt, keep it simple: one finish per garment, and a clear care label to match.